Welcome to my Western Balkans summer itinerary! This past June and July, I spontaneously decided to backpack the Western Balkans with very little knowledge about the region beforehand, save for the travel guidebook I purchased that proved to be extremely beneficial during my travels. Part of me is grateful that I was able to go into this part of the world slightly "blind" to what it's all about, as I got to truly learn from the people and the land in terms of its history and culture.
The countries in the Western Balkans are fascinating, magical, multicultural, yet sometimes chaotic, divided, and unusual. While I was able to cover a good chunk of the Western Balkans (5 countries in total), I decided to save Croatia, Kosovo, and Serbia for other trips for various reasons (However I did fly in and out of Belgrade various times, but outside of that I didn't get to explore the country.)
If you're thinking about backpacking the Balkans in some capacity during the summertime, I've listed some recommendations down below on what you should check out in each country as well as the best places to go. I hope that you'll be able to gain some insight on where to go and what to expect on your trip to the Western Balkans - I definitely recommend that everyone checks out this region if they can, because boy is it underrated!
Fast facts:
Timeline: 1-month
Number of countries: 5
Order of travel:
Bosnia & Herzegovina (5 days)
Montenegro (9 days)
Albania (4 days)
(FYI - Even though I did spend 4 days in Albania, I didn't explore the country enough to dedicate a section in this blog to - I hope to go back and explore soon!)
North Macedonia (6 days)
Slovenia (6 days)
Other resources that I used to plan my trip:
Country #1: Bosnia & Herzegovina
Bosnia & Herzegovina is a country that still has very open wounds from the Bosnian War that took place from 1992 - 1995. This war unfortunately resulted in the death of around 100,000 people, and a number of war crimes, genocide, and 'ethnic cleansing' was committed. It was heartbreaking getting to hear the firsthand experience of this war from the locals, however their courageousness and bravery to rebuild their country and their lives after the war ended is admirable.
Bosnia and Herzegovina truly is a special place. What I really enjoyed about it is its multiculturalism, where various ethnic groups and people of different religions live next to each other while still bearing the scars of the past.
Sarajevo (2 days)
Sarajevo, the multicultural capital of Bosnia & Herzegovina, lies in the valley of the Miljacka River at the foot of Mount Trebević.
Recommendations:
Go on the free walking tour through the city with Meet Bosnia, offered every day at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. The tour primarily takes you around the core of old-town Sarajevo, known as the Baščaršija. It provides a great foundation for understanding the city in the Austro-Hungarian times during the Ottoman Empire and the siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian War from 1992-1995. Passionate, local guides will lead the way!
Try traditional Bosnian coffee in the old town. For all the coffee snobs out there, Bosnian coffee differs from Turkish coffee in that it's made without sugar in the coffee pot. However, both coffees are cooked in small, ornate pots with a long neck called džezva in Bosnian.
Walk over to the Memorial to Children Killed in the Siege of Sarajevo. This memorial is a somber reminder of the young lives that were lost during the Bosnian war, and the innocence of the children that were murdered.
Try traditional Bosnian food such as ćevapi at a čevabdžinica and burek at a buregdžinica: There are plenty of places to pick up these meat-filled delicacies in Sarajevo, and some even say that you can find the best burek in the world in Sarajevo. I personally opted for Buregdžinica Bosna and Čevabdžinica Kastel, and I enjoyed both.
Mostar (3 days)
Mostar is a city in southern Bosnia & Herzegovina that straddles the Neretva River, and is the historic capital of Herzegovina.
Recommendations:
Walk across the world-famous Stari Most, a reconstruction of the 1566 version of the bridge that was demolished during the civil war. The bridge is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, where divers jump off for the thrill and fame of it all.
Go on a war tour that explains the breakup of Yugoslavia and the war in Mostar. Many hostels in the city offer war tours, however if your accommodation doesn't offer them, there are other tours such as this tour that discusses Yugoslavia's rise and fall, the life of Josip Broz Tito, the Yugoslav wars, and more.
Visit Blagaj Tekke, a dervish house that rests above the cave mouth where the Buna River's blueish-green waters flow from. You'll be amazed by the spiritual feeling that surrounds this location, and it is still a venue for Zikr praise-chanting. This tour takes you to Blagaj Tekke, among other stops in the country.
Take a dip in the water at Kravica Waterfalls: Located on the Trebižat River, these stunning moss-covered waterfalls are open from May-October where visitors can cool off in the water, have a picnic, and enjoy the grand views.
Country #2: Montenegro
Montenegro is a fascinating country, as it offers it all - beaches, mountains, medieval villages, and more! The Montenegrin coast along the Adriatic is magical with its sparkling waters and views of the mountains. Fun fact: The name Montenegro (which in Montenegrin is Crna Gora) translates to "Black Mountain." As the Venetians controlled present-day Montenegro, you're able to notice the influence in the ancient city of Kotor, with its Venetian architecture and fortifications, as well as religious monuments and Italian flavors intermixed in its cuisine.
Kotor (4 days)
Kotor is a town on the Adriatic coast of Montenegro, and is located in the Bay of Kotor.
Recommendations:
Do one of the hikes to see St. John's Fortress and the Bay of Kotor: Make sure to do your research on which hike to do beforehand, as there are a few options. I did the Ladder of Kotor trail, where I took in amazing views of Kotor from a birds-eye-view. The trail is rocky and zig-zaggy and can be strenuous, especially for those who don't hike often. Make sure to hike in the morning, especially in the summertime, to avoid the heat and to take the best pictures. If you're hiking up to the fortress itself, know that the entrance fee is 8 euros.
Explore the Old Town and grab gelato: I found that doing a free walking tour was the best way to learn about this beautiful city and the various architectural features that compose it. For a self-guided option, start at the Sea Gate and make your way to the clock tower and the various squares that form the city. Admire all of the cats along the way, and stop for gelato at Cattarissimo.
Indulge in black squid ink risotto, a local dish, at Restaurant City Terrace and sit on their patio to enjoy the amazing saxophonist. Also, visit BBQ Tanjga for a Montenegrin barbecue spread.
Explore the surrounding areas of Kotor, including Perast and Tivat, by boat or car. Be sure to check out the Blue Cave, and Our Lady of the Rocks islet to go inside the Roman Catholic Church.
Ulcinj (2 days)
Ulcinj is the southernmost coastal town in Montenegro and is one of the oldest settlements along the Adriatic Sea.
Recommendations:
Relax at Liman Beach 1, where you can set up shop for the afternoon and sunbathe and swim all that your heart desires. The white rocks that compose the beach are beautiful to look at, but they do hurt your feet, so be sure to bring swim shoes! There is also a restaurant next to the beach if you're in need of a refreshment, and beach chairs to lay out on.
Go on a sunset boat tour to see the sunset on the beautiful, crystal clear waters surrounding Ulcinj.
If you have time, visit the Ulcinj Saltpans, a commercial salt production facility that attracts more than 250 species of migratory birds, including flamingos! Visitors can learn about the science of salt production and the history of the site through a guided tour.
Žabljak (3 days)
Žabljak is a small town in Northern Montenegro that is in the center of the Durmitor mountain region.
Recommendations:
Hike in Durmitor National Park, which is the largest of Montenegro's five national parks and home to Mount Durmitor, a limestone massif that offers stunning views. The famous Bobotov Kuk, the highest peak of the mountain, stands tall at 8,278 feet. There are hundreds of miles of lakes, gorges, and forests to seek out, including Tara River Canyon, in this national park area in northern Montenegro.
Visit Black Lake: This is hands down one of the most beautiful lakes that you will ever see in your life, I guarantee it. Known as Crno Jezero in Montenegro, this glacial lake has various shades of blue, from deep blue to turquoise depending on the way the sun hits it. The lake is calm and undisturbed, save for the few ducklings following each other closely. The lake is also surrounded by pine forests, which you can easily get lost in admiring its smell, shade, and overall magic. You can chill by the lake's edge, take a dip in its refreshing water, take a row boat out with your friends, and more. I would recommend visiting this lake on a day that you don't feel like hiking - it offers a refreshing brake!
If nothing else, please eat at Shambhala Bakery: I couldn't believe that I found this absolute gem of a bakery in a mountain town in Montenegro - it was honestly too good to be true. I shamelessly visited this bakery multiple times every day that I was in Žabljak, and even camped out here all day to do some work it was so good. Order multiple slices of their delicious cakes, as well as the white sauce shakshouka for lunch - you won't regret it.
Country #3: North Macedonia
I'll be completely transparent with you - I personally did not have an enjoyable time in this country. Unfortunately, the majority of the locals that my travel friend and I interacted with were rude to us, and only seemed to want our money. I couldn't help but think that part of the reason why the locals were mean to me was because they saw my Greek nameplate necklace, as the Macedonians and Greeks aren't necessarily the best of friends. However, at the very end of our time in North Macedonia, we did happen to meet some nice locals on the shores of Lake Ohrid, who taught us how to skip rocks and picked cherries for us. I will never forget their kindness that day! While I will not be going back to this country, I do think Lake Ohrid is worthwhile to visit at some point in your life - it's Europe's deepest and oldest lake, and the sunset across the lake each evening was absolutely incredible to watch.
Skopje (3 days)
Skopje is the capital city and the largest city in North Macedonia, which lies in the Skopje Basin.
Recommendations:
Wander through the Old Bazaar, which is the second-biggest Ottoman bazaar of its kind in Europe. The bazaar is comprised of mosques, museums, shops, sweet shops, restaurants, bars and much more in between bezisten market areas and narrow stone alleys. The Turkish are the ones who shaped this bazaar, and you're able to see the influence as you walk down its alleyways. Be sure to grab a piece of baklava and admire the variety of choices in a Turkish halva shop.
Take a walking tour to see the various statues that are oddly placed throughout the city, that seem to be everywhere you look. A pregnant woman with her child here, a disgruntled-looking old man there, and a couple of theatre performers over there. Very strange indeed! While I didn't have time to take a walking tour to uncover this mystery myself, I highly recommend this city for historians and economists who want to learn more about the implementation of these statues around the city in the first place.
Visit Matka Canyon, which is an artificial lake and gorge located about 30 minutes outside of Skopje's city center. Please, please, please rent a car and drive here instead of taking any form of public transportation. I relied on the public bus to pick me up, which was a mistake, as it never came. I then had to get an expensive taxi (with a mean driver, I might add) back into the city center which nearly ruined the experience for me. At the canyon itself, you can opt for a hike, or take some kayaks or a boat onto the water. Beware of the stray dogs as they will follow you around the canyon in the early hours before the flood of other tourists arrive on buses.
Walk around the supermarket in Shopping Center Vero and be amazed at all of the food and drink options surrounding you. Oddly enough, this supermarket was my favorite attraction in Skopje, and I swear that not a single item was out of place in there. Everything was so orderly and aesthetically pleasing to look at...you have to check it out when you're in Skopje. I recommend grabbing some groceries from here instead of eating out in Skopje as I had some pretty subpar meals at the restaurants in the city.
Lake Ohrid (3 days)
Lake Ohrid is one of Europe's oldest and deepest lakes, and it straddles the border between the southwestern part of North Macedonia and eastern Albania.
Recommendations:
Visit Samuel's Fortress: The fortress of Tsar Samuel is located at the highest point of the city of Ohrid and offers fantastic views of the surrounding Lake Ohrid, the city of Ohrid, and the Galicica Mountains National Park. The fortress is a short 10-minute walk from the Upper Gate, and you'll really feel like you've been transported back in time as you stroll around the medieval-style stronghold.
Take a scuba diving lesson at Diving Center Amfora: Ever wonder what it's like scuba diving in a freshwater lake? Diving Center Amfora is the only internationally licensed diving center in North Macedonia, that offers both beginner and pro divers a chance to explore the magic of Lake Ohrid. The diving center is located right across from a reconstructed prehistoric settlement called Bay of The Bones - instead of paying to experience this settlement on land, I guarantee you that it's best explored underwater! This happened to be my first scuba dive ever, and boy am I glad that I did it! I did the beginner 1-day scuba dive, but visitors are also able to obtain their diving certification here.
Take pictures during sunset at the Church of St. John the Theologian: This is by far one of the most stunning churches I've ever seen! Dedicated to the evangelist St. John The Theologian, this Macedonian Orthodox church is perched over Kaneo Beach overlooking Lake Ohrid. Be sure to go inside and check out the beautiful frescoes that encompass its dome.
Country #4: Slovenia
Slovenia was by far my favorite country that I visited in the Balkans - I felt welcomed by the locals, intrigued by its culture, impressed with its landscape, and wowed by its food. I was able to spend my 26th birthday in Lake Bled, and it was by far one of my favorite birthdays to date. Once you land in Ljubljana's airport you'll realize just how special this country is. The mountains that welcome you in are utterly amazing, especially shrouded in the golden sunset light. I will be coming back to this country and sharing its magic with my friends and relatives because it really is that special!
Ljubljana (3 days)
Ljubljana is Slovenia's capital and largest city. The Ljubljanica River divides the city's old town from its commercial hub.
Recommendations:
Go on a free walking tour to the Ljubljana Castle: Opt for the Old Town & Castle Free Tour offered by the tour company Ljubljana Free Tour - they do an amazing job of showing you the city, and you're able to go to the hilltop castle to take in the stunning views. The tour guides take you to the free entrance points in the castle - I recommend taking a tour like this so that you don't have to pay to see very similar views on your own.
Visit and spend some time in Tivoli Park, where you can visit arguably the most beautiful pond in the world, which is Tivoli Pond. Think majestic swans, bright green lilypads, and dragonflies galore. I swear I spent three hours here because I was absolutely taken aback by its beauty. I would recommend taking a picnic and bringing your book! You can also eat the most delicious, farm-fresh lunch at Švicarija, which I made a whole video about on my Instagram.
Indulge in the best gelato at Gelateria Romantika - This gelato shop follows traditional Italian techniques and sources fresh, seasonal ingredients for their gelato and sorbetto. There's a reason why Lonely Planet writers called this the "best ice cream in the world."
Take in city life by wandering around the various town squares of Ljubljana. Here, you will come across cute cafes and bars, various churches, bridges, and much more. Stroll around the local vendors of Ljubljana's Central Market, which is a market and series of food stalls that borders the Ljubljanica canal. There's so much great shopping in the city center, whether you want to buy some clothes from Slovenian designers or unique chocolate gifts.
Lake Bled (3 days)
Lake Bled is a lake in the Julian Alps of northwestern Slovenia, which is encompassed by the town of Bled.
Recommendations:
Try the Bled cream cake (blejska kremšnita) at Slaščičarna Zima and thank me later! It's sort of embarrassing to admit, but I ate this cake twice a day each of the three days that I was in Bled. I truly can't describe in words how amazing this cake is. For someone who doesn't normally enjoy cream-filled desserts, this cake was quite the exception. From the bottom to the top, this traditional Slovenian cake consists of a layer of puff pastry, then a top of creamy vanilla custard, then whipped cream, then another layer of puff pastry and then a sprinkle of icing sugar.
Take a walk around Lake Bled and admire...just everything about it. This place is pure magic and is by far my favorite place that I visited on my trip to the Balkans. From the stunningly beautiful Church of Mary the Queen sitting majestically in the middle of lake Bled, to the glistening water, to the ducks swimming along the lake's shoreline, to Bled Castle towering above it all, Bled is a place that you need to visit at least once in your lifetime. Be sure to come during the summer if you want to admire the festivities around the lake, sunbathe until you heart is content, go on a kayak trip around the lake, the list goes on! I found that 3 days was a perfect amount of time to spend in Bled - if I would've gone for a shorter time I surely would've regretted not spending enough time here. However, Bled is only about a 35 minute drive/bus ride from Ljubljana so it does make a good day trip if you're strapped for time.
Sunbathe, take dips in the water, and enjoy the water toys at the Castle Bathing Area, which is a 300-meter long swimming and bathing area by Lake Bled that offers lake goers an area to swim and tan, as well as access to umbrella rentals, waterslides and other water toys, diving boards, a boathouse, changing rooms, and more. There are also beautiful trees that you can find some shade under during those hot summer days, and you get a jaw-dropping view of the church in the middle of the lake. While plenty of tourists and Slovenians will set up shop here on a summer's day, this attraction is 100% worth it. I only paid 12 euros for all-day access, and you can come and go as you'd like if you just remember to keep your ticket with you to rescan. Be sure to check out Grajska Plaža for lunch - not only is the food fantastic, the waitstaff are so friendly, and you'll have a terrific view of the lake!
Would you all like to see a post about my expenses and what I spent in the Balkans for an entire month? If so, drop me a line at caroline.stratos@gmail.com!
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